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Tim Tam slammed over biscuit blunder

<p>A bemused shopper has caused a stir online with their side-by-side comparison of Tim Tam packets. </p> <p>In a photo posted to Reddit, biscuit fans were met with the horrifying discovery that unless they were buying Tim Tam’s Original line, they were receiving significantly less biscuit for their buck. </p> <p>Two packets had been placed side by side - one Tim Tam’s Original biscuits, the other their Deluxe Dark Choc Mint - to make the disparity in Tim Tam to plastic ratio clear for all to see.</p> <p>In the deluxe pack, eight biscuits could be nestled in the plastic with large gaps between them, typically weighing in at 175g when full. Meanwhile, in the original, 11 could be sandwiched into the packaging, and weighed 200g before any were eaten. </p> <p>Most importantly, both packs - from the outside - appeared to be exactly the same size. </p> <p>“Australia’s biggest scam unwrapped,” <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/australia/comments/12tws3i/australias_biggest_scam_unwrapped/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">the post was titled</a>, drawing in over 600 comments, and over 7,000 ‘upvotes’ - the Reddit equivalent of telling fellow users that something is worth a look at. </p> <p>As one put it, “that’s gotta be the most un-Australian Australian thing I’ve ever seen.”</p> <p>“As an American looking at this, it actually bothers me how inefficient the packaging is. You can get so much more in there,” another pointed out.</p> <p>“Stupid amount of plastic for eight biscuits,” one noted. </p> <p>“Honestly just make the packet smaller,” someone suggested, before adding that “this only increases plastic waste. At least a smaller expensive product ‘feels’ more premium.”</p> <p>There were those that could see the funny side, of course, taking to the comments to try and lighten the situation for those mourning the loss of their beloved biccies. </p> <p>“11 Tim Tams. Why 11? Not divisible by anything. I can’t eat 1/4 of the packet, or 1/2, so looks like I’m eating the lot,” one wrote. </p> <p>“And here I was, thinking I was just eating them too quickly,” joked another.</p> <p>“Duh, that's why they're called ‘Deluxe’, cause they're rarer and way harder to capture in the wild to put in packs,” one expert on the matter explained. </p> <p>And while the original poster went on to respond to many that they were only having some fun, and it really wasn’t that serious, there were those that simply wanted to rain on their parade, repeatedly pointing out that the weight and quantity of biscuits was clearly displayed on the packaging itself.</p> <p>In response to one such comment, the poster said that they were “literally having a laugh, I’m not a victim having a cry. It’s biscuits. The photo shows the spacing of the deluxe which is wasteful and the packet sizes are the same length, which is deceiving.”</p> <p>And, as they also later explained, the packaging information simply wasn’t a factor because “I’m a professional Tim Tam eater so I pick based on flavours.”</p> <p><em>Images: Reddit</em></p>

Food & Wine

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"I can only do so much": we asked fast-fashion shoppers how ethical concerns shape their choices

<p>You’ve found the perfect dress. You’ve tried it on before and you know it looks great. Now it’s on sale, a discount so large the store is practically giving it away. Should you buy it?</p> <p>For some of us it’s a no-brainer. For others it’s an ethical dilemma whenever we shop for clothes. <a href="https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/JFMM-01-2019-0011/full/html">What matters more</a>? How the item was made or how much it costs? Is the most important information on the label or the price tag?</p> <p>Of the world’s industries that profit from worker exploitation, the <a href="https://www.globalslaveryindex.org/">fashion industry is notorious</a>, in part because of the sharp contrast between how fashion is made and how it is marketed. </p> <p>There are more people <a href="https://www.ilo.org/global/publications/books/WCMS_575479/lang--en/index.htm">working in exploitative conditions</a> than ever before. Globally, the garment industry employs millions of people, with <a href="https://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---asia/---ro-bangkok/documents/briefingnote/wcms_758626.pdf">65 million garment sector workers in Asia alone</a>. The Clean Clothes Campaign estimates <a href="https://cleanclothes.org/poverty-wages">less than 1%</a> of what you pay for a typical garment goes to the workers who made it.</p> <h2>How much does a worker make on a $30 shirt?</h2> <p>Some work in conditions so exploitative they meet the definition of being <a href="https://www.commonobjective.co/article/modern-slavery-and-the-fashion-industry">modern slaves</a> – trapped in situations they can’t leave due to coercion and threats.</p> <p>But their plight is hidden by the distance between the worker and the buyer. Global supply chains have helped such exploitation to hide and thrive. </p> <p>Do we really care, and what can we do?</p> <p>We conducted <a href="https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-06-2021-0158">in-depth interviews</a> with 21 women who buy “fast fashion” – “on-trend” clothing made and sold at very low cost – to find out how much they think about the conditions of the workers who make their clothes, and and what effort they take to avoid slave-free clothing. Well-known fast-fashion brands include H&amp;M, Zara and Uniqlo.</p> <p>What they told us highlights the inadequacy of seeking to eradicate exploitation in the fashion industry by relying on consumers to do the heavy lifting. Struggling to seek reliable information on ethical practices, consumers are overwhelmed when trying to navigate ethical consumerism. </p> <h2>Out of sight, out of mind</h2> <p>The 21 participants in our research were women aged 18 to 55, from diverse backgrounds across Australia. We selected participants who were aware of exploitation in the fashion industry but had still bought fast fashion in the previous six months. This was not a survey but qualitative research involving in-depth interviews to understand the disconnect between awareness and action.</p> <p>Our <a href="https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-06-2021-0158">key finding </a> is that clothing consumers’ physical and cultural distance from those who make the clothes makes it difficult to relate to their experience. Even if we’ve seen images of sweatshops, it’s still hard to comprehend what the working conditions are truly like.</p> <p>As Fiona*, a woman in her late 30s, put it: “I don’t think people care [but] it’s not in a nasty way. It’s like an out of sight, out of mind situation.”</p> <p>This problem of geographic and cultural distance between garment workers and fashion shoppers highlights the paucity of solutions premised on driving change in the industry through consumer activism. </p> <h2>Who is responsible?</h2> <p>Australia’s Modern Slavery Act, for example, tackles the problem only by requiring large companies to report to a <a href="https://modernslaveryregister.gov.au/">public register</a>on their efforts to identify risks of modern slavery in their supply chains and what they are doing to eliminate these risks. </p> <p>While greater transparency is certainly a big step forward for the industry, the legislation still presumes that the threat of reputational damage is enough to get industry players to change their ways. </p> <p>The success of the legislation falls largely on the ability of activist organisations to sift through and publicise the performance of companies in an effort to encourage consumers to hold companies accountable.</p> <p>All our interviewees told us they felt unfairly burdened with the responsibility to seek information on working conditions and ethical practices to hold retailers to account or to feel empowered to make the “correct” ethical choice.</p> <p>“It’s too hard sometimes to actually track down the line of whether something’s made ethically,” said Zoe*, a woman in her early 20s.</p> <p>Given that many retailers are themselves ignorant about <a href="https://www.afr.com/wealth/investing/companies-risk-litigation-over-modern-slavery-ignorance-20201215-p56nix">their own supply chains</a>, it is asking a lot to expect the average consumer to unravel the truth and make ethical shopping choices.</p> <h2>Confusion + overwhelm = inaction</h2> <p>“We have to shop according to what we care about, what is in line with our values, family values, budget,” said Sarah*, who is in her early 40s. </p> <p>She said she copes with feeling overwhelmed by ignoring some issues and focus on the ethical actions she knew would make a difference. “I’m doing so many other good things,” she said. “We can’t be perfect, and I can only do so much.” </p> <p>Other participants also talked about juggling considerations about environmental and social impacts.</p> <p>“It’s made in Bangladesh, but it’s 100% cotton, so, I don’t know, is it ethical?” is how Lauren*, a woman in her early 20s, put it. “It depends on what qualifies as ethical […] and what is just marketing.”</p> <p>Comparatively, participants felt their actions to mitigate environmental harm made a tangible difference. They could see the impact and felt rewarded and empowered to continue making positive change. This was not the case for modern slavery and worker rights more generally.</p> <p>Fast fashion is a lucrative market, with <a href="https://www.businessinsider.com/the-billionaire-family-behind-fast-fashion-powerhouse-boohoo-2019-11?r=AU&amp;IR=T">billions in profits made</a>thanks to the work of the lowest paid workers in the world.</p> <p>There is no denying consumers wield a lot of power, and we shouldn’t absolve consumers of their part in creating demand for the cheapest clothes humanly – or inhumanly – possible. </p> <p>But consumer choice alone is insufficient. We need a system where all our clothing choices are ethical, where we don’t need to make a choice between what is right and what is cheap.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Shutterstock</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/i-can-only-do-so-much-we-asked-fast-fashion-shoppers-how-ethical-concerns-shape-their-choices-172978" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>.</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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"Bring them back!": Arnott's axes beloved bikkies

<p>Fury has broken out among Arnott’s fans as the famed Aussie biscuit brand has announced the discontinuation of one of its most popular products without warning.</p> <p>That's right - Honey Jumbles are no longer on sale. It's no secret the people are furious as angry shoppers flooded Arnott’s on social media with complaints after their beloved biscuit got the chop.</p> <p>However, the decision to cut the iconic soft-baked gingerbread fingers which are topped with pink or white icing, happened back in July 2021 and only now are people pleading with Arnott’s to “bring them back!”, branding the decision “horrible”.</p> <p>“Arnott’s honey jumbles got discontinued and I’m just finding out. This is horrible news,” one devastated fan wrote on Twitter.</p> <p>“So, Arnott’s, we’re just going to cancel Honey Jumbles without any warning huh?” another wrote alongside a crying face emoji.</p> <p>“Not fair! There’s only so many Venetia’s you can eat when you can’t get Honey Jumbles,” a third said.</p> <p>Amy Wagner, the Arnott's director of PR and consumer experience, has said the decision to axe the biscuit came from poor sales.</p> <p>“We stopped baking our Honey Jumbles in July 2021. At this stage, there are no plans to bring the product back to shelf."</p> <p>However, she softened the blow by revealing Arnott’s had released an adapted Honey Jumbles recipe for the “very passionate fans” so they can recreate the “iconic” biscuit at home.</p> <p><em>Image: Arnott's</em></p>

Food & Wine

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How the parallel lives of two influential editors shaped Australia’s literary culture

<p>The cover of Jim Davidson’s <a href="https://www.mup.com.au/books/emperors-in-lilliput-hardback" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Emperors in Lilliput</a> juxtaposes a photograph of Meanjin’s Clem Christesen smoking a pipe with a picture of Overland’s Stephen Murray-Smith lighting his.</p> <p>The design conveys Davidson’s focus on the parallels between the two editors, each of whom founded and presided over a little magazine for a remarkable 34 years. But the mirrored images also highlight the gulf between a past in which Men of Letters might casually puff on their briars and a present in which pipe-smoking editors constitute a faintly risible cliché.</p> <p>Davidson’s study provides, then, an excavation of a vanished world, an archaeological dig into the miniature kingdoms over which Christesen and Murray-Smith once ruled, both of which rested on a distinctive literary nationalism.</p> <p>“The culture of a country is the essence of nationality,” Christesen explained in an early radio broadcast, “the permanent element of a nation.”</p> <p>He launched <a href="https://meanjin.com.au/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Meanjin</a> amid the total war of 1940. With a Japanese invasion seemingly imminent, the writer Randolph Bedford dismissed a new literary magazine as a waste of much-needed ink: intellectuals should, he said, be “digging post holes” rather than scribbling poems.</p> <p>Meanjin’s supporters, on the other hand, saw high culture as constitutive of national consciousness, an idea traceable back as least as far as the Enlightenment. Hume, for instance, thought “a few eminent and refined geniuses” would shape a “whole people” by their “taste and knowledge”.</p> <p>This idea was considerably sharpened by the first world war. As Chris Baldick explains in his classic The Social Mission of English Criticism, literary scholars promoted great writing as fostering “the national heritage and all that was precious in it, against the threat of its destruction by the barbaric Hun”. With Christianity losing its power, the literary canon offered an alternative foundation for the nation state – so much so that, in 1921, Oxford’s George Sampson could declare reading “not a routine but a religion […] almost sacramental”.</p> <p>The sense of good books superseding the Good Book as the source of national cohesion spurred on Christesen and his allies. <a href="https://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/palmer-edward-vivian-vance-7946" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Vance Palmer</a> identified resistance to the Japanese with an “Australia of the spirit”. An early Christesen editorial made the same point – albeit warning that the country’s roots were “embedded in shallow sand and rubbish” and thus required a serious literary watering.</p> <p>War, in other words, made poetry more necessary, rather than less.</p> <h2>Literary nationalism and spiritual unity</h2> <p>Nationalism provided an external justification for Christesen’s preoccupations, rendering novels and poems not esoteric diversions but interventions of considerable public importance. Crucially, though, it did so without reducing literature to a mere cipher or proxy. Authors forged spiritual unity with their imaginative power, so national identity depended not merely on books, but on great books. On that basis, Meanjin’s literary nationalism stressed the literary as much as the nationalism: as Davidson says, “quality” remained Christesen’s watchword.</p> <p>Overland evolved in a quite different fashion. Like Christesen, Stephen Murray-Smith came from a respectable conservative family. After military service in New Guinea, he studied at the University of Melbourne, a hotbed of postwar radicalisation that induced him to move from the Liberal Party to the ALP to the Communist Party of Australia (CPA), all within the space of year.</p> <p>Local communism emerged from the war considerably strengthened by the reflected glory of the Red Army. Having long since abandoned proletarian revolution, CPA politics centred on the dream of a Popular Front: a patriotic alliance between the working class and the liberal wing of the bourgeoisie.</p> <p>The orientation lent particular significance to its cultural endeavours. The party embraced what it called a “progressive nationalism”, describing local democratic traditions as menaced by capitalists in hock to foreign imperialists. Accordingly, the CPA ran bookshops throughout the country, launched a subscription-based distribution service known as the Australasian Book Society, and encouraged would-be authors of democratic nationalist literature to join the Realist Writers Group, whose newsletter Murray-Smith edited from 1952.</p> <p>The CPA’s advocacy of a now desperately unfashionable “socialist realism” could, perhaps, be framed in contemporary terms as an effort to promote more diverse representation in a publishing industry that almost entirely excluded working class people.</p> <p>In some respects, it succeeded admirably, constructing a parallel literary infrastructure based on the trade unions. It created an alternative canon of left-wing writers that included the likes of <a href="https://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/hardy-francis-joseph-frank-19531" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Frank Hardy</a>, <a href="http://www.womenaustralia.info/leaders/biogs/WLE0507b.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Dorothy Hewett</a>, <a href="https://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/devanny-jane-jean-5968" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Jean Devanny</a> and <a href="https://labouraustralia.anu.edu.au/biography/morrison-john-gordon-jack-31466" target="_blank" rel="noopener">John Morrison</a>.</p> <p>Yet its failures could also be given a modern gloss. An emphasis on inspirational portrayals of “positive heroes” supposedly arising from authors’ “lived experience” fostered an aesthetic conservatism that privileged didactic content over formal experiment. In his study <a href="https://www.cambridge.org/core/books/writing-in-hope-and-fear/1A1A0F29FEA172F690ECB8881F765F0B" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Writing in Hope and Fear</a>, John McLaren describes how the Sydney Realist Writers Group critiqued a Frank Hardy story called Death of a Unionist:</p> <blockquote> <p>Members of the group objected that the characters in the story were not ‘typical’, the husband Bill showed a ‘bad attitude’ to his wife and had an anarchic attitude to union discipline, and the story left it unclear whether the woman gave away her baby for economic or domestic reasons.</p> </blockquote> <p>The party developed a kind of “sensitivity reading”, in which apparatchiks assessed how accurately a given book represented working class struggles: disapproval of Sally and Frank Banister’s novel Tossed and Blown led, for instance, to weeks of denunciations in the CPA’s newspaper Tribune, in a prolonged and public cancellation.</p> <h2>A civilising pursuit</h2> <p><a href="https://overland.org.au/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Overland</a> appeared in 1954. Initially advertised as an extension of the Realist Writers Group newsletter, it was registered in the name of its editor, so when Murray-Smith exited the party after the Soviet invasion of Hungary in 1958, Overland came with him.</p> <p>The introduction to the 1965 anthology An Overland Muster illustrates how Murray-Smith’s editorial perspective developed. It argued that:</p> <p>Firstly, that writing was not confined simply to the best that had been said, written or thought in the world, [but] that there were all sorts of traditions, and not just a ‘great’ one; secondly, that other things being equal, writing dealing with our local reality, Australia and our jobs and our politics and our history, and if you like, our beaches, would be meaningful in a way that ‘better’ writing more removed from us was not meaningful.</p> <p>The passage retained the CPA’s commitment to a plebeian nationalism, defined, in some senses at least, against a traditional Anglophile elite. But Murray-Smith now rejected the conceptual apparatus of socialist realism, insisting that Overland wanted to be “broader, more humorous, more conscious of literary standards, and less dogmatic in every way”. As he put it, in a later bald formulation, “we are not particularly interested in stories-with-a-social-message”.</p> <p>By abandoning a conception of literature as a direct political intervention, Murray-Smith moved to a version of cultural nationalism much closer to Christesen’s, so much so that Frank Hardy could sniff about Overland becoming “a kind of poor man’s Meanjin”. As Davidson says, Murray-Smith maintained a focus on authenticity, while Christesen remained more literary, but “a good many people subscribed to both magazines; writers eager for publication, happily wrote for both of them […] in effect, they functioned conjointly”.</p> <p>Their complementary success underscores the tremendous advantages of nationalism as a strategic orientation.</p> <p>By the 1930s, Terry Eagleton says, the re-invention of literature as a semi-spiritual social glue allowed intellectuals to present English literature as “not only a subject worth studying, but the supremely civilizing pursuit, the spiritual essence of the social formation”. That conviction – a sense that literature mattered fundamentally to the nation – sustained Christesen and Murray-Smith running their tiny magazines for 34 years, a tenure that Davidson describes (correctly, in my view) as “almost inconceivable today”.</p> <p>Christesen donated the equivalent of $400,000 of his own money to keep Meanjin alive; even his flaws (in an extraordinary chapter, Davidson describes his own harrowing experience as Meanjin’s second editor, constantly undermined by its controlling founder) stemmed from his unshakeable belief in his mission.</p> <h2>The collapse of the nationalist paradigm</h2> <p>Yet Emperors in Lilliput also allows us to understand how the nationalist paradigm collapsed. The later incarnations of Meanjin and Overland were, Davidson says, “often dismissed by much of the reading public as too self-consciously Australian, exercises in gumnutry”.</p> <p>That’s not surprising. During the Cold War, a deep anti-Americanism underpinned the CPA’s cultural interventions, with party publications calling, for instance, for ruthless censorship of US comic books. The Australasian Book Society’s Bill Wannan urged Overland to pit its “aggressive Australianism” against “the rubbish coming in from overseas”. By and large, the journal did, mounting, through the entirety of Murray-Smith’s editorship, a rearguard defence of Australian folk traditions against comics, television, rock music and the like.  </p> <p>Christesen’s commitment to a nationalism underpinned by high culture more-or-less mandated an opposition to US-based culture industries, despite his deep engagement with American literature. By the the 1950s, he, too, was denouncing the “enormous quantity of sub-normal trash” arriving from overseas and urging Australia “to protect its own culture from being perverted and corrupted by debased forms of a foreign culture”. From the perspective of a 21st century in which Warner Brothers and DC reign supreme, a belief in a literary Border Force capable of excluding American superheroes seems quixotic, even perverse.</p> <p>As far back as 1848, Marx had described the inexorability of cultural globalisation. The Communist Manifesto explained how “individual creation of individual nations [became] common property”. For Marx, the world market’s tendency to undermine “national one-sidedness and narrow-mindedness” made cultural autarky not only impossible but profoundly reactionary.</p> <p>The development of Meanjin and Overland illustrates the point. Meanjin took its name from a Turrbal word for the spiky promontory on which Brisbane had been built. The magazine used as its colophon a boy holding a goanna and a boomerang. An early edition contained an A.P. Elkin article entitled Steps into the Dream Time. Yet Meanjin, like almost all the writers it published, took it for granted that a national culture would be European.</p> <p>In a presentation in 1966, Christesen reduced Indigenous Australia to a cautionary tale, a warning as to where an insufficiently vigorous culture might lead. “An Australian literary editor,” he explained,</p> <blockquote> <p>is confronted by a sort of vast cultural Simpson desert. A few literate natives huddle beneath ragged ghost gums or brigalows near brackish billabongs and soak holes. For the most part they live solitary lives, mumble to themselves, go on random walkabout, but certainly there is little communication in any recognisably civilised sense between them.</p> </blockquote> <p>The Communist Party had backed Aboriginal struggles from as early as the 1920s and, as leftists, Murray-Smith and his comrades stood considerably in advance of the white mainstream. Davidson describes how Overland published a “cluster of articles on Indigenous matters”, including an insider account of the <a href="https://www.nma.gov.au/explore/features/indigenous-rights/civil-rights/freedom-ride" target="_blank" rel="noopener">NSW Freedom Ride</a> of 1965.</p> <p>Yet it is difficult not to notice how much the “temper democratic, bias Australian” slogan that adorned the Overland masthead sounds like a Hansonite catchphrase. The comparison might be unfair – Murray-Smith chose the phrase because in the 1950s conservatives identified with the British empire. But the quotation came from Joseph Furphy’s novel <a href="https://readingaustralia.com.au/books/such-is-life/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Such is Life</a> (1897) – and Furphy elsewhere explained how in “all the rugged prose of life there runs a strain of poetry, and the name of the poem is White Australia”.</p> <p>In a colonial settler state, the boundary policing of literary nationalism could not help but foster a racialisation of culture, even among self-identified progressives.</p> <p> </p> <figure></figure> <p> </p> <p>Indeed, one of the revelations in Davidson’s account involves the markedly right-wing jag Murray-Smith took in later years. A student demonstration against the racial IQ theorists Hens Ensenck and Arthur Jensen appalled him so much that he briefly contemplated an “alliance with the authoritarian right to guarantee the order without which we cannot function”. He considered the Whitlam government “more disastrous than most of us on the Left are willing to admit”. He became vice-president of the Anti-Metric Society, judged the foundation of the Communist Party “the biggest tragedy in Australian politics”, and suggested that a proposed new school curriculum should centre on Latin, typing, the Bible, and “perhaps car mechanics”.</p> <h2>Literature and activism</h2> <p>Murray-Smith’s late conservatism adds an exclamation point to Davidson’s key contention that the end of the two men’s tenure signalled the expiry of a certain model of literary editorship.</p> <p>So what, we might ask, has replaced it? Consider the rhetorical strategies by which literary organisations, including magazines, defend their existence today.</p> <p>When Murray-Smith died in 1988, the Labor Party had already embraced the neoliberalism that was sweeping the world. One facet of that was the reconceptualization of the arts as first and foremost an industry, justified by the extent to which it contributes to GDP. Of necessity, as Alison Croggon writes, “artists and cultural organisations [were] forced to justify themselves in languages and according to criteria that have almost nothing to do with art”.</p> <p>As Croggon implies, this was a venture doomed from the start. You can tot up the not-inconsiderable number of people employed directly and indirectly by the culture industries, but that does not provide a vocabulary to assess the activity those people consider important. To put the issue another way, if the market adjudicates aesthetics, J.K. Rowling matters more than any poet who ever lived.</p> <p>Not surprisingly, desperate writers push back against the neoliberal paradigm by invoking an old-style literary nationalism, not least because its assumptions are baked into the infrastructure of arts funding. Yet, though slogans about “telling Australian stories” emerge almost reflexively, they no longer possess much rhetorical power for a public that, quite justifiably, wants to hear (or, more likely, stream) the best stories from all over the world.</p> <p>To its credit, the Australian literary scene now pays considerably more attention to issues of race, gender and sexuality, in ways that render the valorisation of a “national identity” almost impossible. The problem doesn’t pertain merely to the traditional canon’s relationship with white Australia: even the most multicultural nationalism depends, by definition, on a boundary separating citizens and foreigners.</p> <p>But the new preoccupation with social justice, while necessary, is not sufficient to re-ground a literary project.</p> <p>Any understanding of culture solely in terms of politics faces the same dilemma encountered by the writers of the CPA. If we conceive of writing as a mere proxy for activism, we become bad activists (poetry makes nothing happen) and worse writers, devoid of any criteria for judging the aesthetic value of our work.</p> <p>That’s why this history matters. For all its flaws, the nationalist paradigm provided a basis for Christesen and Murray-Smith to privilege literary achievement: the spiritual wellbeing of the country depended, they declared, on great writers. We can’t – and shouldn’t – revive their project. But we certainly should learn from it, as we strive for something better.</p> <p><strong>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/how-the-parallel-lives-of-two-influential-editors-shaped-australias-literary-culture-191573" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>.</strong></p>

Books

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French Dispatch: four artists whose work was shaped by mental illness

<p>Wes Anderson’s film The French Dispatch is about the final issue of a magazine that specialises in long-form articles about the goings-on in the fictional town of Ennui-sur-Blasé. The film is an anthology of shorts representing three of the articles. </p> <p>A piece by the magazine’s art critic (Tilda Swinton) explores the life and late success of the abstract artist Moses Rosenthaler (Benicio Del Toro). Talented from a young age, Rosenthaler pursued art with a dogged determination that drove him to slowly lose his mind. In a fit of rage he commits a triple homicide that lands him in jail, where, after a long time away from art, he creates his best work aided by his prison guard and muse Simone (Léa Seydoux).</p> <p>Artists, like Rosenthaler, burdened with too great a <a href="https://youtu.be/WRjKDxdmdU0">lust for life</a>, or a <a href="https://youtu.be/4MUZ_UHJZGo">tragic taste for alcohol</a>, or even intense and murderous desires, are familiar figures in film and fiction. In some films <a href="https://youtu.be/XdAR-lK43YU">art itself is demonic</a>. </p> <p>Like everything else, mental illness is understood within the context of its time. In their study of melancholy and genius <a href="https://www.nyrb.com/products/born-under-saturn?variant=1094929357">Born Under Saturn</a>, the art historians Margot and Rudolf Wittkower show how Renaissance artists embraced mental alienation. This was shown by a <a href="https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/336228">withdrawn, slothful gloom</a>. Such heavy sadness was considered both the symptom and the price of divine inspiration. It was a means to distinguish their inspiration from the mere “know-how” of craft. A brush with madness was good PR.</p> <p>So well established did this association become, that if you look up “artist” in the index of writer Robert Burton’s 1620 compendium <a href="https://www.nyrb.com/products/the-anatomy-of-melancholy?_pos=1&amp;_sid=ffbb60c34&amp;_ss=r&amp;variant=1094931585">The Anatomy of Melancholy</a>, you will find one entry. It reads: “ARTISTS: madmen”. </p> <p>Today, the association of creativity and mental illness often implies regression from an adult and orderly state of mind to one that is primal, impulsive, or infantile. The artist in Anderson’s film is such an example: he is noisy, impetuous, and extravagantly mad. And it is while he is at his “maddest” that he paints his best work.</p> <p>Here I explore the work of four painters whose work has been shaped by various mental illnesses, highlighting how the idea of the “mad artist” need not be tied up with a loss of control but rather a bid to gain it. It is not always loud. It can be quiet, highly detailed or restrained – as the work of these artists shows.</p> <p><strong>Richard Dadd</strong></p> <p>One parallel to Rosenthaler is the Victorian painter <a href="https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artists/richard-dadd-130/richard-dadd-artist-and-asylum">Richard Dadd</a>. The career of this brilliant young artist was destroyed by a mental breakdown that today would probably be diagnosed as paranoid schizophrenia. </p> <p>Dadd killed his father, imagining him to be the devil incarnate. He was incarcerated in the criminal lunatic department of Bethlem Hospital. It was as a patient that he painted many of his obsessively detailed masterpieces, such as <a href="https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/dadd-the-fairy-fellers-master-stroke-t00598">The Fairy Feller’s Master-Stroke</a>, (1855-64). The painting contains hidden details that not everyone can see. For instance, in the middle of the painting, I see a figure with a pallid face, wearing a purple cloak, and standing at right angles to the rest of the painting.</p> <p>It is the work of this period that Dadd is remembered for.</p> <p><strong>Edvard Munch</strong></p> <p>A less painful example can be found in the Norwegian painter, Edvard Munch.</p> <p>Munch’s famous work The Scream (1893) depicts a vision the artist had of “blood and tongues of fire” rising over a fjord. In the foreground, a cadaverous figure clasps his cheeks in agonised shock. A handwritten message on the top left-hand corner of this painting was recently shown to be in the <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-56127530">artist’s hand</a>. It reads: “Can only have been painted by a madman.” </p> <p>Munch saw it as a sign of health that he could express sickness and anxiety in art, and he embraced the idea that madness was a gift that granted him insights denied to others.</p> <p><strong>Mary Barnes</strong></p> <p>A striking example of “creative regression” can be found in the artist and poet <a href="https://spacestudios.org.uk/events/mary-barnes/">Mary Barnes</a>. Diagnosed with schizophrenia and refusing to take basic care of herself, Barnes was the first resident of Kingsley Hall, an experimental therapeutic community founded by the psychiatrist RD Laing. She started making images when she was there, initially using her excrement. As one of her <a href="https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/260398.pdf?refreqid=excelsior%3Af2d35a75183622c49dcd9c2746bcd14d">psychotherapists described, "</a>Mary smeared s**t with the skill of a Zen calligrapher. She liberated more energies in one of her many natural, spontaneous and unself-conscious strokes than most artists express in a lifetime of work. I marvelled at the elegance and eloquence of her imagery, while others saw only her smells."</p> <p>Barnes went on to have a <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/news/2001/jul/13/guardianobituaries.books">successful career</a> as an artist.</p> <p>The phrase “natural, spontaneous and unself-conscious” is a window into the belief that expressive creativity lies in primal regression. As the last example shows, this is certainly not necessarily the case.</p> <p><strong>Agnes Martin</strong></p> <p>The American painter Agnes Martin went through <a href="https://youtu.be/902YXjchQsk">two decades of experimentation</a> to achieve the lucid abstraction that she is known for. In her notes for a talk at the University of Pennsylvania in 1973, <a href="http://thecheapestuniversity.org/en/ressource/on-the-perfection-underlying-life/">she wrote, "</a>The work is so far from perfection because we ourselves are so far from perfection. The oftener we glimpse perfection or the more conscious we are in our awareness of it the farther away it seems to be."</p> <p>Martin suffered from auditory hallucinations and was diagnosed with paranoid schizophrenia. Her calm and methodical paintings, such as <a href="https://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/martin-faraway-love-ar00178">Faraway Love</a> (1999), depict abstract states of existence: innocence, happiness, and the sublime. They are as much meditations as visual experiences. </p> <p>“Sometimes”, she continued, “through hard work the dragon is weakened.”</p> <p>The example of Martin’s <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2015/may/22/agnes-martin-the-artist-mystic-who-disappeared-into-the-desert">thoughtful and devoted life</a> is in stark contrast to the noisy stereotype of the impulsive and primal genius. </p> <p>While the paintings of the fictional Rosenthaler and the real Martin are both highly abstract, they sit in stark contrast to each other. Martin’s has a reserved, ordered quality while Rosenthaler’s is bold and unrestrained, splashing across whatever he is using as his canvas. Away from the romantic notions of the great artist expounded in film, as these artists show, most art is about gaining rather than losing control.</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared on <a href="https://theconversation.com/french-dispatch-four-artists-whose-work-was-shaped-by-mental-illness-170302" target="_blank" rel="noopener">The Conversation</a>. </em></p>

Art

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How to find a hairstyle that best suits your face shape

<p>Booking in a hair appointment can bring on both feelings of excitement as well as anxiousness. Joy in the hope of getting the best haircut of your life. Anxiety surrounds the daunting task of entrusting your locks over to someone else and not being able to articulate what you’re after. More often than not, though, getting adequate time in the chair to chat through your current hairstyle concerns, what options will bring out your best features and what style you want to go with, is a luxury that doesn’t get the time it deserves. The result of this situation? You leave the salon with a mediocre cut you don’t love.</p> <p>Before your next haircut, spend time thinking about what suits your face shape. To help you make a considered choice, Over60 spoke to two hairdressers about how to make your locks best complement your bone structure. Aleks Abadia, co-founder and hair director at <a href="http://esstudio.com.au/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><strong><span style="text-decoration: underline;">Esstudio Galleria</span></strong></a> along with hairstylist, educator and <a href="http://www.philips.com.au/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><strong>Phillips</strong></span></a> HairCare ambassador, Lizzie Liros, offer their advice on what hairstyle will work best for you.</p> <p><strong>Round face</strong></p> <p>Both Aleks and Lizzie agree that in order to give more dimension to a round face, it’s all about creating layers and texture. Aleks suggests, “A side part or fringe gradually longer at the sides will help your face appear slender”. Lizzie, on the other hand, suggests a slightly more daring cut. “A short, pixie cut helps soften the roundness of the face and draws attention to facial features or the hairstyle itself, rather than the face shape. Or, a long bob that sits at the collarbone is another beautiful style for round faces, helping lengthen the face”.</p> <p>Whatever style you choose, be sure to work in texture or even colour variation in the form of highlights.</p> <p><strong>Square or heart-shaped face</strong></p> <p>For those with a square or heart-shaped face, it’s important to balance out your strong bone structure. Aleks says “layering at the front adds texture. A centre part and longer sides will also help to soften the face shape”.</p> <p>Lizzie’s ideal haircut for square-shaped faces is a mid-length, layered bob. “This style will help move attention away from the jawline, to the cheekbones. If you want to wear your hair longer, just ensure you add in lots of layers (or soft curls) to soften the sharper angles of a square face shape”.</p> <p><strong>Oval face</strong></p> <p>For those lucky oval-shaped beauties out there, we have good news. Aleks refers to this as “The perfect head” because “almost any style will suit and a sweeping bang will always add something a little extra to your style!”</p> <p>If you want to draw attention away from your “long face”, Lizzie says that any soft fringe with movement helps shorten the face and draws attention to features such as the eyes. “Layers, soft waves or curls on either long or mid-length styles help frame an oval face making the face appear more rounded. An all-in-one length would draw attention to the long facial shape.”</p> <p><strong>Oblong face</strong></p> <p>An oblong face shape is longer than an oval shape, so you can get away with heavy, dramatic fringes. Aleks warns about controlling the style though. “If hair is kept at one length, this will make the face appear longer. Layers, texture and volume is the way to go.”</p> <p>Lizzie agrees, explaining that “The body and wave will help soften the long, straight lines of the oblong face shape and create a really pretty overall finish”.</p> <p><strong>Diamond face</strong></p> <p>Lizzie explains, “With a diamond face shape we want to draw attention away from the wearers narrow chin, minimize the wide cheek-bones and shorten the face length”.</p> <p>According to Aleks, there are a few ways to do this. “They can do both short structured bold cuts or long cuts with lots of layers and movement.”</p> <p>What really works for diamond-face shapes is long sweeping layers, pulled back styles, deep side parts and soft fringes around the forehead. Just be sure to avoid too much volume at the crown or around the sides of the face. </p> <p><strong>Triangular face</strong></p> <p>For triangular faces, Aleks swears by “A blunt bob, with a face-framing bang”. This will soften the face with very subtle layers to add soft movement.</p> <p>However, Lizzie disagrees, arguing that you want to avoid styles that draw attention to your jawline, so blunt bobs are out! She instead suggests “long, soft layers styled with waves, a short pixie cut (fringe cut very short) or textured mid length styles with a soft layered fringe are all gorgeous styles for this face shape.”</p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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New Tim Tam flavour hitting the shelves

<p dir="ltr">Arnotts gave Aussies the opportunity to vote for the new Tim Tam flavour and the results are in!</p> <p dir="ltr">The options were between Dark Choc Espresso Martini Tim Tam or Butterscotch and Cream Tim Tam. </p> <p dir="ltr">Voting closed on April 11, with the winning flavour announced as Butterscotch and Cream Tim Tam.</p> <p dir="ltr">The delicious, decadent flavour will hit Coles’ shelves in July. </p> <p dir="ltr">The Butterscotch and Cream Tim Tam has rich brown sugar and toffee notes paired with a creamy blend of buttery smooth butterscotch cream, also coated in delicious milk chocolate.</p> <p dir="ltr">Compared to the Dark Choc Espresso Martini which is made with roasted espresso and vodka flavoured cream sandwiched between two crunchy biscuits, all coated in decadent dark chocolate.</p> <p dir="ltr">The Butterscotch and Cream Tim Tam flavour will make a delicious addition to the pantry, alongside your other favourite Tim Tams.</p> <p dir="ltr">Rebecca Chan, Arnott's Senior Brand Manager said it’s always fun getting Aussies to vote for a new flavour, proving it successful in previous years. </p> <p dir="ltr">“We know how passionate Australians are about Tim Tams and we love giving them the opportunity to choose a new flavour each year,” she said. </p> <p dir="ltr">“The two flavour contenders are certainly our most indulgent so far, bringing an espresso martini into mouth-watering biscuit form, with the ultra decadent Butterscotch and Cream alongside as a fierce contender.”</p> <p dir="ltr"><em>Images: Arnotts</em></p>

Food & Wine

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The best way to part your hair for your face shape

<p><strong>Why your hair part matters</strong></p><p>One of the great equalisers in life is that we all have endured at least one hairstyle that just…didn’t work. For me, it was a centre-part bob in college that was supposed to accentuate my heart-shaped face, and oh boy, did it ever. My wavy type 2 hair fell equally on both sides of my face, and according to my generous brother, it gave me the appearance of a Lego head. Luckily, as the style grew into a lob, I was able to use the length to play around with different hair parts, and it is not an exaggeration to say that it changed my entire facial appearance.</p><p>Gen Z’ers recently declared side parts to be “over.” Perhaps they have not yet had this humbling experience, because anyone who has knows what a gift from heaven a side part can be, especially when recovering from a serious hairstyle mistake. It’s also a very forgiving type of part that works with most face shapes. But women with oblong and rectangular faces, beware: a deep side part can elongate a face, depending on your hair type, so if your hair skews straight as an arrow, it’s best to spritz a salt spray in first for some extra movement.</p><p><strong>Best part for a round face</strong></p><p>Visually lengthen your face by drawing more attention to the centre with curtain bangs, suggests hairstylist Matt Fugate. These bangs are parted in the centre and angle down to get longer toward your jawline. By leaving a bit of forehead exposed and tapering at your jaw, the eye focuses on the middle of your face instead of the round sides. “Instantly you change the [face] shape to more of a diamond,” says Fugate. If bangs aren’t your thing, try a deep side part, suggests stylist Mackenzie Day. Creating more volume at the top of your head will make your face seem longer.</p><p><strong>Best part for round with textured </strong></p><p>If you’re looking to use hair as an optical illusion to make your face appear slimmer, one definite no-no is having too many layers when sporting a middle part. Those layers will add volume, rather than elongate. If your hair type is a temperamental 2, celebrity stylist Larry Sims reminds us to first “check the weather before you invest in a blowout.” For dry, sunny days, rock a middle part with straight hair, but on a rainy or humid day, “lean into your natural hair” while opting for a deep side part to create a stylised look.</p><p><strong>Best part for an oval face</strong></p><p>A centred hair part can highlight any asymmetry in your face, but a deep or slightly off-centre part will look flattering, says Day. Women with oval face shapes can also take advantage of the fact that they can pull off tricky looks, like slicking a ponytail back to hide your part or trying blunt bangs, according to Fugate. “You want to do something architectural to show off your face,” he says. After you figure out the optimal way to part your hair, make sure you have the best eyebrows for your face shape.</p><p><strong>Best part for a heart-shaped face</strong></p><p>A centre part will draw attention to the middle of your face and make a pointy chin seem harsher. Bringing your part to the side, on the other hand, can create more balance for your features. “A slightly off-centre part would help create some softness in the hair and help break up the face a little more,” says Day.</p><p><strong>Best part for heart-shape with textured hair</strong></p><p>Sometimes the best way to part hair means forgoing a part altogether. For natural or Afro-textured hair, a no-part pixie is a fail-safe option to keep curls in check; just don’t be afraid to let it “morph” as the days go on, says Sims. “Start off with clean hair, and when you wake up, add oil, run your fingers through it, and allow it to be. You’ll get many more levels of different looks if you just let it go.” By lifting hair at the root for a hidden part, eyes are drawn to the heart shape’s high cheekbones.</p><p>A centre part also can also work wonders for those with heart-shaped faces and textured hair. That’s because hair in a centre part can enhance the natural flow of the face, bringing attention to the balance and symmetry of the heart.</p><p><strong>Best part for a square face</strong></p><p>Middle parts and blunt bangs exaggerate a strong jawline, so if you have a square-shaped face, keep the hair around your face soft and wispy, suggests Fugate. A deep or slight side part will help soften the look, says Day. “It doesn’t need to be drastic,” she notes. “You can create a really nice, soft face frame.”</p><p><strong>Best part for an oblong face</strong></p><p>An oblong face is longer and tends to have a wider forehead than an oval face. A hair part that swoops across your forehead from the side will create the right amount of movement and volume, says Fugate. To mix it up a bit, Day recommends a diagonal or zigzag part, depending on your hair type, to create visual interest by drawing the eye across your face, rather than up and down. But remember to stay away from a middle part, which does an oblong face no favours – it can make the forehead look extra elongated, starting from part’s beginning at the crown of the head and extending all the way down to the chin.</p><p><strong>Best part for a rectangular face</strong></p><p>Bangs or a full fringe go beautifully with gracefully long, rectangular faces. A strong, straight middle part at the crown works as an optical illusion to centre and frame the face in a seamless way before flowing into a full fringe, which evokes a playful vibe. Take Naomi Campbell’s famous fringe: her long bangs, which start at the crown of her head and sweep down to her eyebrows, keep the focus on the lower half of her face in a super glam way. This accentuates her cheekbones, jawline, and delicate chin. How can you make bangs look picture-perfect every time?</p><p><strong>Best part for an inverted triangle-shaped face</strong></p><p>“I love really strong shapes that showcase texture and the person’s features,” says hairstylist Stacey Ciceron, adding a reminder that the style should fit easily into your morning routine so that “you’re able to maintain your style on the go.” Tyra’s no-part part is the epitome of a wash, toss, and go hairstyle that looks expertly un-done in a totally done way, especially for an inverted triangle face shape. Warning: if you have this shape and part your hair unharmoniously, say, right down the centre, it can make your chin appear sharp and pointy.</p><p><strong>Best part for a diamond-shaped face</strong></p><p>If you have a diamond face shape, you have a sharp chin and high cheekbones, and your hair part should depend on how much you want to play those features up. A side part will soften your face, while a centre part will make them even more pronounced. “It all goes according to personality and style,” says Day. And one of the great things about a top-knotch hairstyle is the freedom to take your part either way, depending on whether you’re feeling cutting-edge with a straight-down-the-centre part, or a little more conservative and demure with a very flippable side part. It’s the summer, so play it up!</p><p><strong>Best part for a diamond shape with curly hair</strong></p><p>As we mentioned, a centre part can look sleek and edgy on a diamond-shaped face. Think Tracee Ellis Ross’ hint of a centre part amidst her full set of corkscrew curls. Bonus: “If you opt out of heat styles and do things that are proactive styles, like twists and going with natural curls, the style can last for days on end,” says Sims. “The frizzier it gets, the cooler it looks to me.”</p><p><em>Written by Kaitlin Clark. This article first appeared in <a href="https://www.readersdigest.com.au/healthsmart/beauty/hair-and-nails/the-best-way-to-part-your-hair-for-your-face-shape" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Reader’s Digest</a>. For more of what you love from the world’s best-loved magazine, <a href="http://readersdigest.innovations.com.au/c/readersdigestemailsubscribe?utm_source=over60&amp;utm_medium=articles&amp;utm_campaign=RDSUB&amp;keycode=WRA87V" target="_blank" rel="noopener">here’s our best subscription offer.</a></em></p><p><em>Image: Getty Images</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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Big changes afoot for Today show as Karl and Ally told to 'shape up or ship out'

<p>Today show hosts Karl Stefanovic and Allison Langdon have reportedly been told to “shape up or ship out” as the show kicks off for 2022 and heads into ratings reason.</p><p>According to The Sunday Telegraph, the show's executives plan to throw “everything but the kitchen sink” at the production in attempts to boost ratings.</p><p>Some big changes that are rumoured for the show this year include having Scherri-Lee Biggs take over as a weather presenter after impressing viewers and execs alike while working over the summer break.</p><p>Entertainment reporter Brooke Boney may also be moved to a roving reporter role. One insider shared it wasn’t all bad news, saying the show still had some wins last year. "Today has found its mojo," the source told the publication.</p><p>"Even though they didn’t win overall last year, Today had a pretty successful 2021 and claimed wins on the east coast in some markets.</p><p>"They will definitely provide strong competition this year."</p><p>It comes as Nine's Married At First Sight and Seven's newest season of The Voice both kick off nationally, with execs eager to see who will win the ratings war.</p><p>According to TV Tonight, Nine’s Director of Morning Television Steven Burling spoke of 2021's challenges.</p><p>"It’s been a challenging year as the pandemic and repeated lockdowns have taken their toll on Australians of all ages," he said.</p><p>"During this time of crisis more and more viewers have made Today their breakfast program of choice for their daily news updates, and some much-needed laughs along the way."</p><p><em>Image: Channel Nine</em></p>

TV

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The best sunglasses for your face shape

<p><strong>Best sunglasses for a round face</strong></p> <p><span>The thing to remember about selecting a frame style is that opposites are attractive, according to optician, Pete Hanlin. </span></p> <p><span>If you have a round face – defined by a wider forehead, rounded chin and full cheeks – like Adele, Michelle Williams, and Ginnifer Goodwin, a rectangular frame works beautifully to elongate the face and balance roundness.</span></p> <p><strong>Best sunglasses for an oval face</strong></p> <p><span>Oval faces are very balanced (lucky you!). Genetically blessed beauties like Carey Mulligan, Kerry Washington, Julianne Moore, and Kate Middleton can really wear any style sunnies. </span></p> <p><span>The most important thing is to pick a pair that is sized in proportion to your face. Wayfarers, butterfly, and square styles are all super flattering!</span></p> <p><strong>Best sunglasses for a heart-shaped face</strong></p> <p><span>Heart-shaped faces, like Reese Witherspoon, Halle Berry, and Zooey Deschanel, tend to have a broader forehead, high cheekbones, and narrower jaw with a more pronounced chin. </span></p> <p><span>“The best sunglasses for heart-shaped faces will de-emphasise the angle between the forehead and chin,” explains Catherine Brock, the founder and editor of <em>thebudgetfashionista.com</em>. </span></p> <p><span>Light-coloured frames and those with exaggerated bottoms direct attention downward and add width to lower part of the face.</span></p> <p><strong>Best sunglasses for a square face</strong></p> <p><span>Square faces are characterised by angular features and a strong jawline. Think Salma Hayek, Cameron Diaz, and Sandra Bullock. </span></p> <p><span>When shopping for sunglasses, look for thin, round, and oval shapes, which will help soften facial sharpness. </span></p> <p><span>Semi-rimless frames are also a great choice! “A half plastic, half metal combination frame works well,” says optometrist Dr Monica Nguyen.</span></p> <p><strong>Best sunglasses for a diamond-shaped face</strong></p> <p><span>“The goal when selecting sunglasses for diamond-shaped faces – see Keira Knightley and Viola Davis – is to use the frame to broaden the appearance of the forehead,” says optometrist Dr Barry Kay. </span></p> <p><span>Oval and cat-eye shapes help create balance by highlighting peepers and softening cheekbones. “Also, rimless frames are your friend, as this will really allow your cheekbones to shine,” notes model Victoria DiSorbo. </span></p> <p><span>Avoid frames with a dark bridge or darker lower rims, which tend to draw attention to the middle of the face.</span></p> <p><strong>Best sunglasses for an oblong face</strong></p> <p><span>f you have an oblong face, like Liv Tyler and Sarah Jessica Parker, wider sunglasses, like aviators – especially those with decorative temples, are a great choice. </span></p> <p><span>These styles give the illusion of a shorter, wider face. Planning to spend time poolside or beachfront? Look for a wrapped style, which offers greater UV protection.</span></p> <p><strong>Best sunglasses for a high forehead</strong></p> <p><span>If you’re self-conscious about your forehead, opt for tall lenses or oversized frames. </span></p> <p><span>“A good trick is to pick a pair of sunglasses with a really tall browline bridge, which lifts the face and takes attention away from a high forehead,” says designer Larisa Ginzburg.</span></p> <p><strong>Best sunglasses for a small face</strong></p> <p><span>If you have a smaller face a la Miley Cyrus, look for more petite rectangular and square shapes and thinner frames – both metal and thinner acrylic – look best on small faces, according to designer Eva Spitzer. </span></p> <p><span>What to avoid? Steer clear of big chunky hipster type glasses.</span></p> <p><strong>Best sunglasses for a prominent nose </strong></p> <p><span>For people with a large nose, Ginzburg recommends purchasing a pair of sunnies with adjustable nose pads and a broader nose bridge. </span></p> <p><span>A frame that has a floating nose bridge is also a good idea as it won’t leave marks on your skin from nose pads, and will sit comfortably.</span></p> <p><strong>Best sunglasses for wide-set eyes</strong></p> <p><span>If you have wide-set eyes, you may find a pilot-shaped frame more attractive than a retro cat-eye to complement your facial features,” explains Hanlin.</span></p> <p><em>Image credits: Getty Images</em></p> <p><em>This article originally appeared in <a rel="noopener" href="https://www.readersdigest.com.au/culture/the-best-sunglasses-for-your-face-shape" target="_blank">Reader's Digest</a>.</em></p>

Beauty & Style

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Crimpy, Pizza or Barbecue – which is the best?

<p><em>Image: Shutter Stock</em></p> <p>Arnott’s is not one to shy away from hard truths. At least, that’s a conclusion that can be drawn from their latest announcement.</p> <p>Known for their delectable sweet and savoury treats, a staple as much as Tim Tams in Aussie childhoods is Shapes – the snack that comes in many flavour variations.</p> <p>The biscuit manufacturer, however, has declared one flavour the ultimate supreme: Chicken Crimpy.</p> <p>Although there exists discourse and debate online surrounding what flavour of Shapes should have the top spot on the picnic blanket, the company’s yearly survey takes no prisoners with its bold results.</p> <p>Coming in a close second are Pizza Shapes, followed by Barbecue Shapes in third place.</p> <p>As for who exactly prefers what oven-baked seasoned delight, the research by Arnott’s indicates the flavour preference mirrors generational divides.</p> <p>Both millennials and those from Gen Z indicate they prefer Pizza Shapes over Chicken Crimpy – 29% of millennials that were surveyed said they loved Pizza shapes and only 20% said Chicken Crimpy were their favourite.</p> <p>Gen Z mirrored millennials somewhat, though the margin of preference was only 6% narrower, meaning only 3% of Gen Z prefer Pizza Shapes to Chicken Crimpy.</p> <p>Arnott’s is nothing if not thorough in its research, having broken down the results on a state-by-state basis.</p> <p>Those residing in NSW and Queensland both agree Chicken Crimpy belongs in the top spot, but those in Victoria prefer Barbecue Shapes overall.</p> <p>Aussies in Canberra, however, threw out a real wild card by choosing Nacho Cheese flavour as an equal favourite alongside Pizza Shapes.</p>

Food & Wine

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Woolworths accused of “disgusting” Anzac biscuit scandal

<p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Woolworths has rejected claims it renamed Anzac biscuits after social media outrage caused by a recent recipe in one of its catalogues.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Posts appearing on Facebook and Twitter suggested the supermarket giant had succumbed to “cancel culture” by removing the word Anzac from its biscuit recipes.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">In the lead-up to Anzac Day, Woolworths featured a recipe for Golden Oat Biscuits in one of its catalogues.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Noticing the striking similarity between the oat biscuits and the traditional Anzac biscuits, one person claimed, “Woolworths in their woke wisdom has changed the name of Anzac biscuits calling them golden oats because it may insult some people.”</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Another shopper claimed the name change was “disgusting and a slap in the face for our Anzacs”, vowing to never shop at the supermarket again.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Clarification came when a spokesperson told Yahoo News Australia the biscuits were not called Anzac Day biscuits out of respect for the strict guidelines set by the Department of Veterans’ Affairs.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“The Department of Veterans’ Affairs has strict regulations around the word Anzac and how it can be used on products or in marketing,” they said.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">“We didn’t have the relevant approvals to use the term for this particular recipe placement in the catalogue and wanted to ensure we respected the regulations.”</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;"><img style="width: 500px; height: 335.4166666666667px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7840941/woolworths-biscuits.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/3499d58e56df4033b6242382ddd4640c" /></span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Companies considering using the word Anzac in their products need to be approved by the department first, which Woolworths did not pursue in this instance.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Yahoo News Australia understands the Golden Oat Biscuits recipe has featured in previous catalogues.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The spokesperson reiterated Anzac biscuits were still available to purchase and had been approved for sale, with proceeds helping raise funds for veterans and their families.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Yahoo News Australia also reached out to the Department of Veterans’ Affairs to clarify on what the approved recipe is and whether Woolworths recipe would have been approved if an application had been submitted.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">Comparing a 2014 recipe published by the department against the Woolworths recipe, both recipes feature the same ingredients but they use varying measures.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">According to the guidelines, “The use of the word ‘Anzac’ in the commercial production and sale of Anzac biscuits is usually approved, however the biscuits must not substantially deviate from the generally accepted recipe and shape, and must be referred to as ‘Anzac Biscuits’”.</span></p> <p><span style="font-weight: 400;">The biscuits must avoid any additions such as chocolate chips and must not be called cookies.</span><span style="font-weight: 400;"></span></p> <p><strong>Image credit: Woolworths</strong></p>

Food & Wine

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Arnotts reveals surprising truth about popular biscuit

<div id="slide-panel-container"> <div class="slide-panel open"> <div class="slide-panel-content"> <div class="pulse_container "> <div class="pulse_content_wrapper"> <div id="pulse-content" class="pulse_content"> <div class="tab is-active"> <div class="space_view middle_style"> <div id="wall" class="wall new_pulse"> <div class="posts_list"> <div class="post_box already_read public" data-id="836801602"> <div class="post "> <div class="post_body_wrapper"> <div class="post_body"> <div class="body_text redactor-styles redactor-in"> <p>Arnott's has just revealed a little known fact about one of its most-loved biscuits.</p> <p>Ginger Nut biscuits are different depending on which Australian state you eat them in, with social media users labelling it the "2020 conspiracy".</p> <p>The renowned biscuit company was happy to confirm the news.</p> <p><img style="width: 500px; height:281.25px;" src="https://oversixtydev.blob.core.windows.net/media/7838792/arnotts-body.jpg" alt="" data-udi="umb://media/3f309488ef5a4b9784c0789338edeab6" /></p> <p>“The Ginger Nut started long ago, back in the 1960s, when we used to have different bakeries in different states each making a Ginger Nut biscuit that their locals loved,” an Arnott’s spokesperson told news.com.au</p> <p>“When Arnott’s became a national company we looked at the possibility of selling one Ginger Nut nationally.</p> <p>“However, Aussies in each state made it clear they loved their homegrown variety, and there’s just no substitute for their Ginger Nut, the version they had grown up and loved.”</p> <p>This means that there are four different recipes in use across different states and territories, with the taste, texture and colour being completely different from the other.</p> <p>WA, SA and NT share the same "sweet recipe", whereas those living in Victoria and Tasmania enjoy an even sweeter flavour which is closest to traditional Giner Nuts overseas.</p> <p>NSW and ACT share the "thick and hard" recipe, while QLD loves the "thin, sweet and dark" recipe.</p> <p>Social media users were either surprised or proud it confirmed what they already knew.</p> <p>“I’ve been living a lie all my life. Why do this to me Arnotts???” a <a rel="noopener" href="https://www.reddit.com/r/australia/comments/fvblnu/i_dont_mean_to_alarm_you_but_i_just_discovered/" target="_blank" class="editor-rtflink">Reddit</a> user said.</p> <p>“I actually got relatives and friends of friends to mail all the different varieties to me, then sat down and did a taste test. Can confirm they’re all very different,” another added, while a third labelled it a “true 2020 conspiracy”.</p> <p>But another responded saying, “I can verify. I have collected Gingernuts from Vic, NSW, ACT and the NT and they are definitely different. NSW/ACT ones are by far the best. Super hard, less sweet and perfect for dipping in tea without falling apart.”</p> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div> </div>

Food & Wine

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Remote-work visas will shape the future of work, travel and citizenship

<p>During lockdown, travel was not only a distant dream, it was unlawful. Some even <a href="https://theconversation.com/coronavirus-is-a-once-in-a-lifetime-chance-to-reshape-how-we-travel-134764">predicted</a> that how we travel would change forever. Those in power that broke travel bans <a href="https://theconversation.com/could-the-dominic-cummings-affair-damage-boris-johnson-in-the-long-term-heres-what-history-tells-us-139514">caused scandals</a>. The empty skies and <a href="https://theconversation.com/coronavirus-should-give-us-hope-that-we-are-able-to-tackle-the-climate-crisis-133174">hopes</a> that climate change could be tackled were a silver lining, of sorts. COVID-19 has certainly made travel morally divisive.</p> <p>Amid these anxieties, many countries eased lockdown restrictions at the <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-532061480">exact time</a> the summer holiday season traditionally began. Many avoided flying, opting for staycations, and in mid-August 2020, global flights were <a href="https://www.statista.com/statistics/1104036/novel-coronavirus-weekly-flights-change-airlines-region/">down 47%</a> on the previous year. Even so, hundreds of thousands still holidayed abroad, only then to be caught out by sudden quarantine measures.</p> <p>In mid-August for example, <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-politics-53773914">160,000 British holiday makers</a> were still in France when quarantine measures were imposed. On August 22, Croatia, Austria, and Trinidad and Tobago were added to the UK’s <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-53871078">quarantine list</a>, then Switzerland, Jamaica and the Czech Republic <a href="https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-53937997">the week after</a> – causing continued confusion and panic.</p> <p>This insistence on travelling abroad, with ensuing rushes to race home, has prompted much <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/europe/europe-travel-coronavirus/2020/08/20/a426b6e4-e23e-11ea-82d8-5e55d47e90ca_story.html">tut-tutting</a>. Some have predicted travel and tourism may cause winter lockdowns. Flight shaming is already a <a href="https://theconversation.com/flight-shaming-how-to-spread-the-campaign-that-made-swedes-give-up-flying-for-good-133842">cultural sport</a> in Sweden, and vacation shaming has even become <a href="https://www.washingtonpost.com/world/europe/europe-travel-coronavirus/2020/08/20/a426b6e4-e23e-11ea-82d8-5e55d47e90ca_story.html">a thing</a> in the US.</p> <p>Amid these moral panics, Barbados has reframed the conversation about travel by launching a “<a href="https://www.barbadoswelcomestamp.bb/">Barbados Welcome Stamp</a>” which allows visitors to stay and work remotely for up to 12 months.</p> <p>Prime Minister Mia Mottley explained the new visa has been prompted by COVID-19 making short-term visits difficult due to time-consuming testing and the potential for quarantine. But this isn’t a problem if you can visit for a few months and work through quarantine with the beach on your doorstep. This trend is rapidly spreading to other countries. <a href="https://forms.gov.bm/work-from-bermuda/">Bermuda</a>, <a href="https://e-resident.gov.ee/nomadvisa/">Estonia</a> and <a href="https://stopcov.ge/en/News/Article/Gov't_to_allow_int'l_citizens_to_work_remotely_from_Georgia">Georgia</a> have all launched remote work-friendly visas.</p> <p>I think these moves by smaller nations may change how we work and holiday forever. It could also change how many think about citizenship.</p> <p><strong>Digital nomads</strong></p> <p>This new take on visas and border controls may seem novel, but the idea of working remotely in paradise is not new. <a href="https://theconversation.com/digital-nomads-what-its-really-like-to-work-while-travelling-the-world-99345">Digital nomads</a> - often millennials engaged in mobile-friendly jobs such as e-commerce, copywriting and design - have been working in exotic destinations for the last decade. The <a href="https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/features/11597145/Living-and-working-in-paradise-the-rise-of-the-digital-nomad.html">mainstream press</a> started covering them in the mid-2010s.</p> <p>Fascinated by this, I started <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40558-020-00172-4">researching</a> the digital nomad lifestyle five years ago – and haven’t stopped. In 2015, digital nomads were seen as a niche but rising trend. Then COVID-19 paused the <a href="https://medium.com/age-of-awareness/has-covid-19-ruined-the-digital-nomad-ecf6772afda2">dream</a>. Digital nomad Marcus Dace was working in Bali when COVID-19 struck. His travel insurance was invalidated, and he’s now in a flat near Bristol wondering when he can travel.</p> <p>Dace’s story is common. He told me: “At least 50% of the nomads I knew returned to their home countries because of <a href="https://www.cdc.gov/">CDC</a> and <a href="https://www.gov.uk/government/organisations/foreign-commonwealth-office">Foreign Office</a> guidance.” Now this new burst of visa and border policy announcements has pulled digital nomads back into the <a href="https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/how-to-be-a-digital-nomad-and-work-remotely-while-travelling-the-world-vn09rd7j6">headlines</a>.</p> <p>So, will the lines between digital nomads and remote workers <a href="https://theconversation.com/five-workplace-trends-will-shape-life-after-lockdown-138077">blur?</a> COVID-19 might still be making international travel difficult. But remote work – the other foundation of digital nomadism – is now firmly in the mainstream. So much so that remote work is considered by many to be <a href="https://theconversation.com/remote-working-the-new-normal-for-many-but-it-comes-with-hidden-risks-new-research-133989">here to stay</a>.</p> <p>Before COVID-19, office workers were geographically tethered to their offices, and it was mainly business travellers and the lucky few digital nomads who were able to take their work with them and travel while working. Since the start of the pandemic, many digital nomads had to work in a single location, and office workers have become remote workers – giving them a glimpse of the digital nomad lifestyle.</p> <p>COVID-19 has upended other old certainties. Before the pandemic, digital nomads would tell me that they <a href="https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s40558-020-00172-4">despised</a> being thought of as tourists. This is perhaps unsurprising: tourism was viewed as an escape from work. And other established norms have toppled: homes became offices, <a href="https://theconversation.com/after-coronavirus-how-seasonal-migration-and-empty-centres-might-change-our-cities-139439">city centres emptied</a>, and workers looked to <a href="https://www.rightmove.co.uk/press-centre/village-enquiries-double-as-city-dwellers-escape-to-the-country/">escape to the country</a>.</p> <p>Given this rate of change, it’s not such a leap of faith to accept tourist locations as remote work destinations.</p> <p><strong>A Japanese businessman predicted this</strong></p> <p>The idea of tourist destinations touting themselves as workplaces is not new. Japanese technologist <a href="https://ethw.org/Tsugio_Makimoto">Tsugio Makimoto</a> <a href="https://www.wiley.com/en-us/Digital+Nomad-p-9780471974994">predicted</a> the digital nomad phenomenon in 1997, decades before millennials Instagrammed themselves working remotely in Bali. He prophesied that the rise of remote working would force nation states “to compete for citizens”, and that digital nomadism would prompt “declines in materialism and nationalism”.</p> <p>Before COVID-19 – with populism and nationalism <a href="https://theconversation.com/the-new-right-how-a-frenchman-born-150-years-ago-inspired-the-extreme-nationalism-behind-brexit-and-donald-trump-117277">on the rise</a> – Makimoto’s prophecy seemed outlandish. Yet COVID-19 has turned <a href="https://theconversation.com/overtourism-a-growing-global-problem-100029">over-tourism</a> into under-tourism. And with a growing list of countries launching schemes, it seems nations are starting to “compete” for remote workers as well as tourists.</p> <p>The latest development is the Croatian government discussing a <a href="https://www.total-croatia-news.com/lifestyle/45869-croatian-bureaucracy-2-0">digital-nomad visa</a> – further upping the stakes. The effects of these changes are hard to predict. Will local businesses benefit more from long-term visitors than from hordes of cruise ship visitors swarming in for a day? Or will an influx of remote workers create Airbnb hotspots, <a href="https://qz.com/quartzy/1574182/ahead-of-its-ipo-what-even-is-airbnb-anymore/">pricing locals out</a> of popular destinations?</p> <p><strong>It’s down to employers</strong></p> <p>The real question is whether employers allow workers to switch country. It sounds far-fetched, but Google staff can already work remote until <a href="https://www.forbes.com/sites/jackkelly/2020/08/21/salesforce-joins-google-and-facebook-in-extending-work-from-home-to-next-summer/">summer 2021</a>. Twitter and 17 other companies have <a href="https://www.entrepreneur.com/article/354872">announced</a> employees can work remotely indefinitely.</p> <p>I’ve interviewed European workers in the UK during COVID-19 and some have been allowed to work remotely from home countries to be near family. At Microsoft’s <a href="https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/research/event/new-future-of-work/">The New Future of Work</a> conference, it was clear that most major companies were mobilising task forces and would launch <a href="https://theconversation.com/remote-working-is-here-to-stay-but-that-doesnt-mean-the-end-of-offices-or-city-centres-145414">new flexible working policies</a> in autumn 2020.</p> <p>Countries like Barbados will surely be watching closely to see which companies could be the first to launch employment contracts allowing workers to move countries. If this happens, the unspoken <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Social_contract#:%7E:text=The%20theory%20of%20an%20implicit,legitimacy%20to%20such%20a%20government">social contract</a> between employers and employees - that workers must stay in the same country – will be broken. Instead of booking a vacation, you might be soon booking a workcation.</p> <p><em>Written by Dave Cook. Republished with permission of <a href="https://theconversation.com/remote-work-visas-will-shape-the-future-of-work-travel-and-citizenship-145078">The Conversation.</a> </em></p> <p><em> </em></p>

Cruising

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Takeaway containers shape what (and how) we eat

<p>Home cooks have been trying out their skills during isolation. But the way food tastes depends on more than your ability to follow a recipe.</p> <p>Our <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25713964/">surroundings</a>, <a href="https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamapediatrics/fullarticle/485781">the people</a> <a href="https://academic.oup.com/jpepsy/article/25/7/471/952605">we share food with</a> and the design of our tableware – our cups, bowls and plates, cutlery and containers – affect the way we experience food.</p> <p>For example, eating from a heavier bowl can make you feel food is <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0950329311000966?via%3Dihub">more filling and tastes better</a> than eating from a lighter one.</p> <p>Contrast this with fast food, which is most commonly served in lightweight disposable containers, which encourages <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0195666312001754">fast eating</a>, <a href="https://www.bmj.com/content/346/bmj.f2907">underestimating</a> how much food you’re eating, and has even been linked to becoming <a href="https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23773044/">impatient</a>.</p> <p>These are just some examples of the vital, but largely unconscious, relationship between the design of our tableware – including size, shape, weight and colour – and how we eat.</p> <p>In design, this relationship is referred to as an object’s “<a href="https://jnd.org/affordances_and_design/">affordances</a>”. Affordances guide interactions between objects and people.</p> <p>As Australian sociologist <a href="https://mitpress.mit.edu/books/how-artifacts-afford">Jenny Davis writes</a>, affordances:</p> <p><em>…push, pull, enable, and constrain. Affordances are how objects shape behaviour for socially situated subjects.</em></p> <p>Designed objects don’t <em>make</em> us do things.</p> <p><strong>The colour of your crockery</strong></p> <p>When you visit a restaurant, the chances are your dinner will be served on a plain white plate.</p> <p>But French chef Sebastien Lepinoy has staff <a href="https://books.google.com.au/books?id=-5gCBAAAQBAJ&amp;pg=PT118&amp;lpg=PT118&amp;dq=Sebastien+Lepinoy+paint+plates&amp;source=bl&amp;ots=8jc3yBavYd&amp;sig=ACfU3U0jRwMOQtM_NmOspLXcyXp9SiVTuQ&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=2ahUKEwjqzNzj3MPpAhUOxjgGHQnvDlEQ6AEwCnoECAkQAQ#v=onepage&amp;q=Sebastien%20Lepinoy%20paint%20plates&amp;f=false">paint the plates</a> to match the daily menu and “entice the appetite”.</p> <p>Research seems to back him up. Coloured plates can enhance flavours to actually change the dining experience.</p> <p>In <a href="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/22128561">one study</a>, salted popcorn eaten from a coloured bowl tasted sweeter than popcorn eaten from a white bowl. In <a href="https://www.semanticscholar.org/paper/Does-the-colour-of-the-mug-influence-the-taste-of-Doorn-Wuillemin/476e322e1de2c705e8691e14c72c814fd79e5e09">another</a>, a café latte served in a coloured mug tasted sweeter than one in a white mug.</p> <p>This association between colour and taste seems to apply to people from Germany to China.</p> <p>A review of <a href="https://flavourjournal.biomedcentral.com/articles/10.1186/s13411-015-0033-1">multiple studies</a> conducted in many countries over 30 years finds people consistently associated particular colours with specific tastes.</p> <p>Red, orange or pink is most often associated with sweetness, black with bitterness, yellow or green with sourness, and white and blue with saltiness.</p> <p><strong>The size of your plate</strong></p> <p>The influence of plate size on meal portions depends on the dining experience and whether you are <a href="https://www.deakin.edu.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0011/897365/DUBELAAR-JACR-Plate-Size-Meta-Analysis-Paper-2016.pdf">serving yourself</a>. In a buffet, for example, people armed with a small plate may eat more because they can go back for multiple helpings.</p> <p>Nonetheless, average plate and portion sizes have <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2016/apr/25/problem-portions-eating-too-much-food-control-cutting-down">increased</a> over the years. Back in her day, grandma used to serve meals on plates 25cm in diameter. Now, the average dinner plate is 28cm, and many restaurant dinner plates have expanded to <a href="https://www.nisbets.com.au/size-of-plates">30cm</a>.</p> <p>Our waistlines have also expanded. Research confirms we tend to <a href="https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0195666311006064">eat more calories</a> when our plates are larger, because a larger capacity plate affords a greater portion size.</p> <p><strong>Plastic is too often ignored</strong></p> <p>The pace of our busy lives has led many people to rely on those handy takeaways in disposable plastic food containers just ready to pop into the microwave. And it’s tempting to use plastic cutlery and cups at barbecues, picnics and kids’ birthday parties.</p> <p>In contrast to heavy, fragile ceramic tableware, plastic tableware is <a href="https://discardstudies.com/2019/05/21/disposability/">designed to be ignored</a>. It is so lightweight, ubiquitous and cheap we don’t notice it and pay little mind to its disposal.</p> <p>Plastics have also changed how we eat and drink. An aversion to the strong smell of plastic containers that once might have caused people to <a href="https://www.mitpressjournals.org/doi/abs/10.1162/0747936042312066?journalCode=desi">wrap their sandwiches before placing them in Tupperware</a> seems to have disappeared. We drink hot coffee though plastic lids.</p> <p>Australian economic sociologist Gay Hawkins and her colleagues argue lightweight, plastic water bottles have created entirely new habits, such as “<a href="https://www.westernsydney.edu.au/ics/news/news_archive/2015/history_of_bottled_water_focus_of_new_book">constant sipping</a>” on the go. New products are then designed to fit and reinforce this habit.</p> <p><strong>Aesthetics matter</strong></p> <p>Healthy eating is not only characterised by what we eat but how we eat.</p> <p>For instance, eating mindfully – more thoughtfully and slowly by focusing on the experience of eating – can help you feel <a href="https://www.health.harvard.edu/blog/why-eating-slowly-may-help-you-feel-full-faster-20101019605">full faster</a> and make a <a href="https://www.cambridge.org/core/services/aop-cambridge-core/content/view/351A3D01E43F49CC9794756BC950EFFC/S0954422417000154a.pdf/structured_literature_review_on_the_role_of_mindfulness_mindful_eating_and_intuitive_eating_in_changing_eating_behaviours_effectiveness_and_associated_potential_mechanisms.pdf">difference</a> to how we eat.</p> <p>And the Japanese cuisine <a href="https://guide.michelin.com/en/article/dining-out/kaiseki-cheatsheet-sg">Kaiseki</a> values this mindful, slower approach to eating. It consists of small portions of beautifully arranged food presented in a grouping of small, attractive, individual plates and bowls.</p> <p>This encourages the diner to eat more slowly and mindfully while appreciating not only the food but the variety and setting of the tableware.</p> <p>Japanese people’s slower eating practices even apply to “fast food”.</p> <p>One <a href="https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/00346651211277654/full/html">study</a> found Japanese people were more likely to eat in groups, to stay at fast food restaurants for longer and to share fast food, compared with their North American counterparts.</p> <p>Affordance theory is only now starting to account for <a href="https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/0270467617714944">cultural diversity</a> in the ways in which designed objects shape practices and experiences.</p> <p>The studies we have reviewed show tableware influences how we eat. Size, shape, weight, colour and aesthetics all play a part in our experience of eating.</p> <p>This has wide implications for how we design for healthier eating – whether that’s to encourage eating well when we are out and about, or so we can better appreciate a tastier, healthier and more convivial meal at home.</p> <p><em>Written by Abby Mellick Lopes and Karen Weiss. Republished with permission of <a href="https://theconversation.com/plates-cups-and-takeaway-containers-shape-what-and-how-we-eat-137059">The Conversation</a>.</em></p> <p><em> </em></p>

Travel Tips

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Shaved, shaped and slit - eyebrows through the ages

<p>Eyebrows can turn a smile into a leer, a grumpy pout into a come hither beckoning, and sad, downturned lips into a comedic grimace.</p> <p>So, it’s little wonder these communicative markers of facial punctuation have been such a feature of beauty and fashion since the earliest days of recorded civilisation.</p> <p>From completely shaved mounds to thick, furry lines, eyebrows are a part of the face we <a href="https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/beauty/what-you-get-for-40-120-or-1000-worth-of-eyebrow-care-20191113-p53acj.html">continue</a> to experiment with. We seek to hide, exacerbate and embellish them. And today, every shopping strip and mall has professionals ready to assist us with wax, thread and ink.</p> <p><strong>Minimising distraction</strong></p> <p>In the court of Elizabeth I, to draw attention to the perceived focal point of a woman’s body – her breasts – the monarch would pluck her eyebrows into thin lines or remove them completely, as well as shaving off hair at the top of her forehead.</p> <p>This was an attempt to make her face plain and blank, thereby directing the viewer’s gaze lower to her substantial <a href="https://books.google.com.au/books?id=mNLZkzxmiEIC&amp;pg=PA107&amp;dq=eyebrows+breasts+elizabethan&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjrq9p1t_lAhUTXisKHffJCSYQ6AEIKDAA#v=onepage&amp;q=eyebrows%20breasts%20elizabethan&amp;f=false">décolletage</a>.</p> <p>Although the intentions were different, nonexistent or needle-thin brows had also been common in ancient China and other Asian cultures, where women plucked their eyebrows to resemble specific shapes with designated names such as “distant mountain” (likely referring to a central and distinctive point in the brow), “drooping pearl” and “willow branch”.</p> <p>In ancient China, as well as in India and the Middle East, the technique of threading - the removal of hairs by twisting strands of cotton <a href="https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1046/j.1365-4362.1997.00189.x">thread</a> - was popular for its accuracy. The technique, referred to as “khite” in Arabic and “fatlah” in Egyptian, is enjoying renewed <a href="https://journals.lww.com/dermatologicsurgery/Abstract/2011/06280/Eyebrow_Epilation_by_Threading__An_Increasingly.26.aspx">popularity</a> today.</p> <p>In Japan between 794 and 1185, both men and women plucked their eyebrows out almost entirely and replaced them with new pencilled lines higher up on the <a href="https://books.google.com.au/books?id=9Z6vCGbf66YC&amp;pg=PA120&amp;dq=eyebrows+robyn+cosio&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwiJ1uCXx-TkAhU0IbcAHSc3D_IQ6AEIPjAD#v=onepage&amp;q&amp;f=false">forehead</a>.</p> <p>Eyebrows of Ancient Greece and Rome, on the other hand, are frozen in contemplation.</p> <p>They are often represented in sculptures through expressive mounds devoid of individual or even vaguely suggested hairs: in men they are strong and masterful furrows above a purposeful gaze; in women, soft and emotive.</p> <p>This lack of detail demonstrates a fondness, in some corners of ancient Greek and Roman society, for joined or “continuous” brows.</p> <p>Poet of tenderness, Theocritus, openly admired eyebrows “<a href="https://books.google.com.au/books?id=37MDAAAAQAAJ&amp;pg=PP9&amp;dq=The+British+Poets,+including+Translations+in+One+Hundred+Volumes:+Theocritus&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwjw-fiWjoLlAhXBXisKHfPBC50Q6AEIMjAB#v=onepage&amp;q=The%20British%20Poets%2C%20including%20Translations%20in%20One%20Hundred%20Volumes%3A%20Theocritus&amp;f=false">joined over the nose</a>” like his own, as did Byzantine Isaac Porphyrogenitus.</p> <p><strong>Brows as barometers</strong></p> <p>For much of the 19th century, cosmetics for women were viewed with suspicion, principally as the province of actresses and prostitutes. This meant facial enhancement was subtle and eyebrows, though gently shaped, were kept relatively natural.</p> <p>Despite this restraint, a certain amount of effort still went into cultivation. A newspaper <a href="https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/189261094?searchTerm=%22If%20a%20child%27s%20eyebrows%20threaten%22&amp;searchLimits=">article</a> from 1871 suggested intervention during childhood to thicken them:</p> <p><em>If a child’s eyebrows threaten to be thin, brush them softly every night with a little coconut oil, and they will gradually become strong and full; and, in order to give them a curve, press them gently between the thumb and forefinger after every ablution of the face or hands.</em></p> <p>As fashions became freer after the first world war, attention was once again focused more overtly on the eyes and eyebrows.</p> <p>This was partly to do with the development of beauty salons during the 1920s, many of which offered classes in makeup application so women could create new, bold looks at home.</p> <p>The fashion for very thin eyebrows was popularised by silent film stars such as Buster Keaton and Louise Brooks, for whom thick kohl was a professional necessity and allowed a clearer vision of the eyebrows – so crucial, after all, for nonverbal expression on screen.</p> <p>The amount of attention paid to eyebrows continued to change according to specific global events.</p> <p>In the 1940s, women began to favour thicker, natural brows after several decades of rigorous plucking to achieve pencil-thin lines. Considering the outbreak of the second world war had forced many out of a wholly domestic existence and into the workforce, it stands to reason they had less time to spend in front of the mirror, wielding a pair of tweezers and eyebrow pencil.</p> <p>The post-war 1950s saw wide, yet more firmly defined brows and from the 1960s onwards various shapes, sizes and thicknesses were experimented with, accompanied by a firm emphasis on individuality and personal preference.</p> <p><strong>More than mono</strong></p> <p>When Dwight Edwards Marvin’s <a href="https://www.bartleby.com/346/14.html">collection</a> of adages and maxims, Curiosities in Proverbs, was published in 1916 it included the old English advice:</p> <p><em>If your eyebrows meet across your nose, you’ll never live to wear your wedding clothes.</em></p> <p>The “mono-” or “uni-brow” had become suggestive of a lack of self care, particularly in women.</p> <p>Research undertaken in 2004 reported American women felt judged and evaluated as “dirty”, “gross” or even “repulsive” if they did not shave their underarm or leg hair, or pluck and shape their <a href="https://books.google.com.au/books?id=y5Enl3JamIgC&amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;dq=Embodied+Resistance:+Challenging+the+Norms,+Breaking+the+Rules,&amp;hl=en&amp;sa=X&amp;ved=0ahUKEwi54bWkjoLlAhVs7nMBHSOJCe8Q6AEIKDAA#v=onepage&amp;q=Embodied%20Resistance%3A%20Challenging%20the%20Norms%2C%20Breaking%20the%20Rules%2C&amp;f=false">eyebrows</a>. As the most visible of these areas, untamed eyebrows perhaps point to the bravest exhibition of natural hair.</p> <p>Today, model Sophia Hadjipanteli sports a pair of impressively large, dark joined eyebrows, and has assertively fought back against the legion of online trolls who have abused her for this point of difference.</p> <p>A reference back to the distinctive brows of Frida Kahlo, Hadjipanteli’s look is linked to an ongoing debate surrounding women’s body hair.</p> <p><strong>Giving a pluck</strong></p> <p>For many, excessive plucking and shaping has become emblematic of the myriad requirements women are expected to comply with to satisfy restrictive societal beauty norms.</p> <p>Still, plenty of people with eyebrows are dedicating time and money to their upkeep. In Australia, the personal waxing and nail salon industry has grown steadily over five years to be worth an estimated <a href="https://www.ibisworld.com.au/industry-trends/specialised-market-research-reports/consumer-goods-services/personal-waxing-nail-salons.html">A$1.3 billion</a> and employ more than 20,000 people.</p> <p>Over this time, social media has offered a diverse and changing menu of brow choices and displays.</p> <p>One choice: the “eyebrow slit” – thin vertical cuts in eyebrow hair – has re-emerged online and in suburban high schools. It’s important to emphasise <em>re-emerged</em> because, with beauty as with clothing, what goes around comes around.</p> <p>The eyebrow slit was especially popular amongst hip hop artists in the 1990s, and draws appeal due to its flexibility: there are no firm rules as to the number or width of the slits, which originally were meant to suggest scarring from a recent fight or gangsta adventure. More recent converts have been accused of <a href="https://www.teenvogue.com/story/eyebrow-cuts-cultural-appropriation">cultural appropriation</a>.</p> <p>Some have experimented by replacing plain slits with other shapes, such as hearts or stars, though plucking or shaving brows into unusual shapes is – as we have seen – by no means new either.</p> <p><strong>Facing the day</strong></p> <p>If the popularity of recent trends is anything to go by, eyebrow fashion will remain on the lush side for some time.</p> <p>The “<a href="http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG8997240/Scouse-Brow-a-beginners-guide.html">Scouse</a>” brow (very thick, wide and angular eyebrows emphasised with highly defined dark pencil shapes: named after natives of Liverpool in the United Kingdom) is still trending.</p> <p>The “Instagram eyebrow” (thick brows plucked and painted to create a gradient, going from light to very dark as the brow ends) is inescapable on the platform and beyond. Makeup for brows is therefore also likely to continue, providing a clear linear connection through nearly all the eyebrow ideals since ancient times.</p> <p>The latest offering to those seeking a groomed look is “<a href="https://www.elle.com.au/beauty/eyebrow-lamination-22517">eyebrow lamination</a>”, a chemical treatment that uses keratin to straighten individual hairs - a kind of anti-perm for your brow.</p> <p>Those still searching for their eyebrow aesthetic may benefit from some wisdom shared by crime and society reporter Viola Rodgers in an 1898 edition of the San Francisco Call newspaper.</p> <p>Eyebrow slits? We can only imagine what Viola would think.</p> <p><em>Written by Lydia Edwards. Republished with permission of <a href="https://theconversation.com/friday-essay-shaved-shaped-and-slit-eyebrows-through-the-ages-123872">The Conversation.</a></em></p>

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